Still relatively untouched by the unbridled commercialism that has somewhat reduced the charm of more popular hill stations like Ooty and Kodaikanal, Coonoor warrants its fair share of attention from tourists, offering stunning scenery, cascading waterfalls, and lush green forests high up in the Nilgiri Hills of Tamil Nadu. Coonoor is on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway route between Mettupalayam and Ooty and is a beautiful small town surrounded by tea plantations and exudes all the charm of a colonial era hill station.

History of Coonoor

Coonoor was first explored by Europeans in the early 19th century and quickly became a holiday destination for British officers during the hot summer months. The climate and soil of the region was found to be suitable for planting tea, and plantations rapidly cropped up. Tea and tourism remain the dominant industries in Coonoor, and in fact much of the Nilgiris. Coonoor can be reached through the Nilgiri Mountain Railway or the Nilgiri Ghat Roads that run across the hills.

Coonoor is located at an altitude of 1839 m and is about 17 km from Ooty. The natural beauty of Coonoor has been much the subject of many books and movies. The majestic hills around Coonoor was used as the backdrop for the 1984 David Lean movie ‘A Passage to India,’ which itself was based on E.M. Forster’s book of the same name. Local movie studios also often shoot in the Coonoor area of southern India.

Exploring Coonoor

The centre of Coonoor town is a bustling hive of activity, with cars, autos, buses and bullock carts all sharing the narrow, steep lanes. Taxis are the best way to get around the place, while autos are an option for those with a more adventurous disposition. There are a number of tourist attractions in and around Coonoor that helps one get a feel for the splendor of the hills.

The Sim’s Park botanical garden has a highly regarded collection of trees and plants native to the region. The park itself was designed along the undulating contours of the land more than a century ago, and has various shrubs, creepers, flowering plants as well as one of the largest repository of temperate plants in India. Ornamental trees have also been introduced to the park from different regions of the world and add to the diversity of the flora in the park. The annual ‘Fruit Show’ is also held at the park in the summer.

Located in the Tiger Hills about 12 km from Coonoor is a unique rock formation known as Dolphin’s Nose that juts out of the face of a hill. Offering spectacular views of the Nilgiri Hills and its lush forests, Dolphin’s Nose also allows visitors to see the magnificent 250 foot high St Catherine Falls. Lamb’s Rock, located on the way to Dolphin’s Nose is another is another viewing spot and commands an excellent sight of the Coimbatore plains. Also worth exploring is the 180 feet high Laws Falls.


Hiking and trekking opportunities abound in Coonoor, with the pleasant temperature and stunning scenery making them worthwhile excursions. Tribal villages and the numerous tea plantations are attractive hiking destinations. Also popular in Coonoor is bird-watching, given the numerous species of birds that inhabit the region, including cormorants, pipits, thrushes, parakeets, skylarks and the Nilgiri verditer.

The idyllic hill station of Coonoor is an excellent setting to experience the splendor of the Nilgiri Hills in all its glory. A quaint little town with little more than tourists and tea plantations to support itself, Coonoor is the perfect place to escape from the drudgery of daily life and refresh the spirit.

An engineering marvel when it was first opened more than a century ago, the Nilgiri Mountain Railway that links Mettupalayam to the renowned hill station of Ooty, remains a treasure in India’s extensive railway system. Recently accorded World Heritage Site status by UNESCO as part of India’s mountain railways, the Nilgiri Mountain Railway (NMR) line was first proposed in 1854 but only completed in 1908 due to a variety of technical difficulties given the mountainous terrain. The 46 km long meter-gauge single-track railway scales up the Nilgiri hills to an elevation of 2203 m (7228 ft) in Ooty.

Nilgiri Mountain Railway

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway is the only rack railway in India, which facilitates the climb up the steep ramp into the hills. One of only about 30 or so such vintage cog railways in the world, the Nilgiri Mountain Railway has an extra rail running in the middle of the track that prevents the train from slipping or sliding back. This mechanism, also known as the Alternate Biting Teeth (Abt) system, is used on many mountain railways around the globe and has been utilized effectively in the Nilgiri Mountain Railway since its inception.


The Nilgiri Mountain Railway is the steepest mountain railway in Asia, with an average gradient of 4.6 degrees. Typical railway gradients are usually less than a third of a degree while most mountain railways operate on gradients of only 1.5 degrees. The steep gradients make the use of the rack and pinion system crucial for safe operation. Despite the enormous challenges posed by the terrain, the Nilgiri Mountain Railway, essentially unchanged from the original system put in place at the end of the 19th century, has only suffered one accident in more than a hundred years of continuous operation.

Changing the Nilgiri Landscape

The case for the Nilgiri Mountain Railway was first made by the British colonial masters of India in the mid 1800’s and after overcoming severe financial and technological obstacles, became a reality at the turn of the century. Before the railway, access to the Nilgiri hills was mainly through grueling journeys on horses or bullock carts. The Nilgiri Mountain Railway, by facilitating the movement of people and goods into the hills, helped change the socio-economic conditions of the region and turn it into one of the most popular tourist destinations in south India.


The train itself is made up of charming blue and yellow wooden coaches with large windows, and is affectionately known as the Nilgiri Toy Train. Some of the last steam locomotives in active duty anywhere in the world are used for the strenuous uphill journey from Mettupalayam to Coonoor. The Swiss-made steam rack locomotives on the Nilgiri Mountain Railway are between 50 and 80 years old. From Coonoor to Ooty, where the gradient is gentler, a diesel locomotive is used.

The Nilgiri Mountain Railway Journey

The train runs at a leisurely average speed of about 10.4 km per hour, taking almost five hours to complete the 46 km journey going uphill. The slow pace allows riders to take in the mesmerizing beauty of the Nilgiri hills along the route to Ooty. Majestic eucalyptus groves and panoramic views of tea plantations are interspersed with colonial-era way stations and quaint tribal villages. The eternal charm exuded by the lofty peaks of the Nilgiris make the train journey an enchanting experience.


The first part of the journey from Mettupalayam to Kallar is surrounded by rice fields stretching into the mountains. The next portion is the steep climb up the Nilgiri Hills into Coonoor, the small hill station known for its tea plantations. Coonoor is the only major stop in the Nilgiri Mountain Railway before Ooty. There are smaller way stations along the way, with their main purpose being to replenish the locomotives with much needed water. The rail goes uphill after Coonoor at a gentler slope before going downhill into Ooty at the end of the line. A breathtaking journey with no less than 208 curves, 250 bridges and 16 tunnels, the Nilgiri Mountain Railway is both a marvel of engineering and a magnificent treat for the eyes.

Eravikulam National Park in Kerala

The Eravikulam National Park is located high in the Western Ghats in Kerala near its border with Tamil Nadu. Blessed with spectacular natural beauty and home to numerous exotic wildlife species, Eravikulam is part of the Western Ghats biosphere under consideration for inclusion as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The Nilgiri tahr, an endangered species of ‘goat-sheep,’ is endemic to the region and is found in relatively large numbers in the Eravikulam National Park in Kerala. The Eravikulam is also known for the mass flowering of the neelakurunji shrub that takes place in the grasslands of the national park only once every 12 years. Elephants make seasonal visits to the park from surrounding areas such as the Indira Gandhi National Park in nearby Tamil Nadu state.

The Ecosystem of Eravikulam

The ecosystem of the Eravikulam National Park in Kerala is dominated by grassland interspersed by sholas that is a result of the high altitude and regional climate. The landscape is punctuated by rolling hills and numerous streams crisscrossing the park. Accessible from both the Kerala side through Munnar and the Tamil Nadu side through Pollachi, the Eravikulam National Park is also home to the highest mountain in southern India – the Anai Mudi that stands at a height of 8842 ft.

Valparai and its Tea Plantations

Almost every rolling slope in Valparai is covered by tea plantations, and those that are not have been left in this natural, forested state because they were deemed unsuitable for tea plants. There is the occasional coffee or cardamom estate, but tea rules supreme in this quaint corner of Tamil Nadu, situated high in Annamalai range of the Western Ghats.

The cool climate, good rainfall, and gentle slopes in Valparai – because they prevent water stagnation in the earth – are perfect for tea. Almost all suitable real estate in the region has been tea plantations for more than a century. Surrounded by the majestic Annamalai Hills, an offshoot of the Western Ghats near the Tamil Nadu border with Kerala, the tea plantations of Valparai enhance the lush landscape.

Forests and Plantations in Valparai

The tea plantations are a sight to behold, especially early in the mornings when the mostly women laborers with net sacks strung on their backs go to work plucking tea leaves. They complete their work in the mornings before the sun climbs too high in the sky. The sea of tea plants around Valparai is punctuated here and there by forests that were left untouched because they were reckoned to be unfit for planting tea.

These forests shelter various forms of wildlife, some dangerous like the snakes and some harmless like the Malabar giant squirrel that is known to clear 50 ft expanses between trees. Elephants and bison survive in packs in these isolated woods which they prefer due to the shade, and occasionally traverse the tea plantations to get to nearby forests. These trespassing, especially those of the elephants which destroy tea plants, are not taken lightly by plantation owners and have led to confrontations, sometimes resulting in material and human losses.

Tea Estates around Valparai in Tamil Nadu

The tea plantations around Valparai are organized in separate estates hundreds of acres in size, and sometimes have accommodations for tourists, allowing them to experience life in these hills in close proximity. The sounds of nocturnal animals make the nights here truly unique. The hills around Valparai also present other priceless sights interspersed between the tea plantations. Various waterfalls and dams, including the Sholayar Dam, dot the area, as well as breathtaking views of the mountains from strategic vantage points.

Valparai is located about 64 km south of Pollachi in the western part of Tamil Nadu. It is situated in the Western Ghats that dominate the southwest coast of the Indian peninsula. The temperate climate and beautiful sights make this tea plantation-dominated town a unique experience.

Anaimalai Wildlife Sanctuary, Tamil Nadu

The Anaimalai Wildlife Sanctuary, also known as the Indira Gandhi Wildlife Sanctuary and National Park, is located in the Annamalai Hills, an offshoot of the Western Ghats. The forests and grasslands in the Annamalai Hills are home to a spectacular array of animals and plants, many of which are endemic to the region.

Located at approximately 5000 ft above sea level, the Anaimalai Wildlife Sanctuary is a veritable sanctuary for elephants, tigers, gaurs and many other mammals. Some species unique to the region include the lion-tailed macaque, the Malabar giant squirrel, and the Nilgiri langur, all of which are considered threatened species. There are also various species of wild boar and deer here. In addition, at least 250 species of birds can be found in the park, as well as more than 2000 species of plants.


Perfect for trekking, the Anaimalai Wildlife Sanctuary offers spectacular sights, waterfalls, dams, reservoirs, and a unique opportunity to observe wildlife in their natural habitat. The Anaimalai Wildlife Sanctuary, and the adjacent Eravikulam National Park are under consideration as World Heritage Sites by UNESCO.

Pollachi to Valparai Road

An adventure by itself, the journey to Valparai from Pollachi features no less than 40 tight hairpin turns as the road it winds its way around the Annamalai Hills. Breathtaking sights and hair-raising curves are familiar sight in this memorable journey. The 65 km trip takes more than three hours to complete as seasoned drivers maneuver the narrow, challenging road into the hills. There are numerous spots along the way to stop and take in the sights and sounds, which inevitably adds to the duration of the trip.

Sleepy Valparai

The town of Valparai itself is a sleepy town that exists merely as the commercial center for the numerous tea plantations around the area as well as a base for tourists. Bullock carts and tea shops are the mainstay of the quiet, little town where time seems to have slowed down. The natural beauty of this region, is however, simply spectacular.

The tea plantations and the wildlife sanctuaries that border Valparai are very popular tourist destinations, and the misty, cool climate adds to the attraction of the place. Located at 3500 ft above sea level, Valparai is surrounded by beautiful mountains and forests that are home to many species of animals and plants.

Pollachi, Tamil Nadu

Pollachi is peaceful agricultural town located near the Western Ghats on Tamil Nadu’s border with Kerala. Bestowed with a pleasant climate throughout the year due to its proximity to the mountains, Pollachi is surrounded by lush rice farms that stretch to the horizon. It is also one of India’s biggest producers of coconut.

Settled since ancient times, Pollachi has been a quiet, serene settlement that has remained largely unchanged by modern technology. Gifted with exceptional natural beauty, the region around Pollachi has been designated into several wildlife sanctuaries and national parks, including the Indira Gandhi National Park in the Anaimalai Hills as well as the Eravikulam National Park.

Pollachi remains the transportation hub into these natural reserves as well as into neighboring Kerala. The Pollachi area is also a popular shooting location for the film industries of Tamil Nadu as well as Kerala, Karnataka and Andhra Pradesh.

Palani Murugan Temple

Symbolically situated at the top of a hill, Palani is perhaps the most celebrated of the Murugan temples in India. An ancient pilgrimage site dedicated to the quintessential Tamil deity, Lord Muruga, the Palani temple is a part of Indian folklore and Hindu tradition. Palani is one of the Aaru Padai Veedugal of Murugan in Tamil Nadu, and he is worshipped here in the form of Lord Dandhayudhabani.

The idol of Lord Muruga worshipped here is made from an amalgam of nine minerals known as navabashana. It is generally believed that an ancient ruler from Kerala, Cheraman Perumal, built the first temple here in the 7th century AD. Pandyan and Nayak rulers of nearby Madurai have made significant contributions to the temple through the ages.

The Legend of Palani Murugan in Tamil Nadu

The story surrounding the Palani Murugan temple is a well known Tamil legend. The sage Narada presented a divine mango, known as jnanapalam or fruit of wisdom, to Lord Shiva and his consort Parvati, who in turn wanted to give it to their children – Ganesha and Muruga. As there was only one fruit, Shiva devised a test for his sons– the first to circumambulate the Earth would win the divine fruit. Lord Muruga immediately mounted his peacock and began his journey around the Earth.

Lord Ganesha, meanwhile, whose mount was a rat, knew he could not beat his brother in this race, and after giving the matter some thought, went around his parents claiming they were his world. Lord Shiva and Parvati were satisfied with this explanation and awarded the mango to Ganesha. Lord Muruga, who completed the circulation of the Earth, however, felt slighted at this gesture and went away to Palani Mazhai, or the Hill of Palani, to meditate and express his displeasure. It is in this form, in a standing posture and holding a staff, that Murugan is worshipped as Lord Dhandayudhabani at Palani.

Kodaikanal - A Jewel of India

Called the ‘Princess of Hill Stations,’ Kodaikanal offers welcome relief from the heat and humidity of India in a serene, beautiful setting. The British sought the escape the heat as well as tropical diseases of India by building hill stations where they could vacation at. The two most popular hill stations in Tamil Nadu are Ooty and Kodaikanal. Set in a basin in the beautiful Palani hills at an altitude of 2,195 m (7,202 ft) and about a three hour bus ride from Madurai, the Kodaikanal hill station is a magnificent location offering spectacular views and stunning natural beauty.

The Beauty of Kodaikanal

Compared to the congestion and bustle of the cities in India, Kodaikanal is a dreamy escape to dramatic scenery and serene treks through the countryside. The beautiful misty atmosphere and cool climate is a welcome change from the heat and humidity of the rest of India. The stunning vistas and distant peaks visible from various locations around Kodaikanal provide a peculiar sense of the splendor of India’s natural beauty. Nested in the Palani hills of western Tamil Nadu, Kodaikanal is also a fine repository of wildlife and plants endemic to the region. Kodaikanal is near the center of the proposed Palani Hills National Park, an effort to help preserve the region in its natural setting.


The beauty of Kodaikanal can be experienced in a variety of manners. Hiking is perhaps the best way to explore the forests of Kodaikanal, and the well-trodden paths offer spectacular views and close encounters with wildlife and plants as well as caves and waterfalls. Biking and horse-riding are also available but with limited access to the more isolated spots.

The picturesque lake set in the center of Kodaikanal has been the subject of many a budding photographer and tourists relaxing on boats in the lake is a common sight. Furthermore, coffee plantations and peach and plum orchards dot the area. Various species of orchids and other beautiful flowers add color and vibrancy to the area.

History of the Indian Hill Station at Kodaikanal

An offshoot of the Western Ghats, the Palani hills near the Kerala border with Tamil Nadu were surveyed by Europeans in the early 1800’s and their reports of beautiful landscapes, wonderful climate as well as relative accessibility attracted American missionaries working out of Madurai to Kodaikanal. The first bungalows were built by 1845 and Kodaikanal soon became a popular holiday destination for the British administrators of India.

The stunning landscape and clear, cool streams of Kodaikanal attracted locals too, especially after India’s independence from the British in 1947. Accommodations were built, but conscious effort has been made to preserve the natural beauty of the region and prevent the kind of unbridled urban development that has occurred at other hill stations in India.

Flora and Fauna of Kodaikanal

Kodaikanal has a temperature subtropical climate due to its high altitude, and temperatures are quite cool by Indian standards, and freezing temperatures sometimes occur in the winter. The summer months from March to May when the weather is mild and dry are the best time to experience Kodaikanal in all its glorious beauty.

The Palani hills region around Kodaikanal lies in a unique ecosystem comprising of high-altitude stunted evergreen forests knows as shola that are found in patches, with the patches separated from each other by undulating grasslands. The high altitude and constant wind prevents the trees here from reaching the heights of other forests. The moss and lichen laden forests here are, however, prime watersheds and help regulate the ecosystem of the region.

A globally recognized biodiversity hotspot, the forests around Kodaikanal is home to numerous species of mammals and trees, including panthers, tigers and elephants. The Palni hills surrounding Kodaikanal also feature steep rock escarpments. The rock bluffs and precipices, sometimes overlooking sheer drops of thousands of feet, are home to the endemic Nilgiri langur and Nilgiri tahr, an endangered “goat-sheep” native to the Indian subcontinent, as well as the Indian rock python.


Kodaikanal is as beautiful as it is serene. Set in a land of timeless beauty, its splendor and magnificence is perhaps matched only by a handful of locations around the world.